Peru Immersion: Back From Machu Picchu and Packing Up

Hola Amigos,

We have just returned from our three-day trek to Machu Picchu and are about to spend our last night in our beautiful homestay village of Ollantaytambo.  Everyone is experiencing a wide breadth of emotion, but contentment seems to be the most powerful.

Since we last checked in with you all, we have been busy finishing our service project, making the most of the remaining time in our homestay community and trekking to one of the world’s foremost wonders, Machu Picchu.

It took hard work from everyone, starting early at 7:30am, but mud abode by mud abode, we put up the 3.5 meter walls of the kitchen early last week.  Our next task was the roof.  We hauled huge wooden beams across town and spaced them on the roof, then connected them with hundreds of bamboo rods, which had to be nailed and secured with wire. Next, was the task of laying the 1,200 or so tiles. Methodically, with the help of our beloved foremen, Juan and Eugenio, we laid row after row of typical clay tile.

We finished the project triumphantly on Wednesday afternoon and celebrated with a toast (of Sprite) and a great sense of accomplishment. Many of us continued with our tradition of ending the day with soccer, but we all headed to bed early in anticipation for the next day’s 3:50am meeting time.

On Thursday morning, the group met at the plaza in the wee hours of the morning ready to start the trek to Machu Picchu. We drove for a few hours, ate the breakfast our host families had lovingly packed for us, and started our walk by 8:00am. The steep hills and humidity was no match for our excitement and high spirits. Before we knew it, we were breaking for lunch. We anticipated a long afternoon of uphill hiking, but were pleasantly surprised with how quickly the time flew by. We arrived at Santa Teresa’s campsite in the afternoon, where we rested our tired feet in the luxurious hot springs.  At bedtime, we retired to our tents for a hard earned night’s rest.

The next morning, we rose at 6am, packing up our tents and sleeping bags, and loaded our backs with our luggage for the next few days. We began the beautiful journey from Santa Teresa to Aguas Calientes, walking along the Urubamba River as the terrain slowly changed from a sub-tropical canyon to sweeping emerald mountains covered with mist.
Eventually, we met up with the famous Peru Rail tracks, which guided us to Aguas Calientes, aka Machu Picchu pueblo.  We had hot showers and an early dinner and tried our best to sleep as the excitement was rising for the today’s push to Machu Picchu.

There are two ways to get from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu: by buses that chug up steep switchbacks or by hiking the infamous, grueling, never-ending steps, which must make Icy-Hot a lot of money.  Clearly, we chose the latter.  At 3:30am our group assembled and the excitement was tangible.  We departed into the misty dark morning, strapped with headlamps and daypacks and began to climb.   Our lungs burned and our legs were willed only by the hope of climbing Wayna Pichhu (they only let the first 400 visitors attempt to climb this peak that towers above the ruins). After 1900 steps (Vanessa counted), we celebrated being some of the first in line at the top.

As the sun rose, we entered the ruins and hurried to the base of Wayna Picchu.  Despite our fatigue, our group scaled the mountain faster than all others. Our speedy ascent was rewarded by being the only ones at the top, accompanied only by clouds, occasional sprinkles and a rainbow stretching over the rugged peaks. Time seemed to stand still as we marveled, speechless, at the surreal setting at the top.

We later descended to the ruins and enjoyed an in-depth tour from our friend and certified guide, Mario “Chino” Meza.  We took the train from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo early this afternoon.

We are scheduled to leave our homestay village tomorrow morning.  In our two weeks here, we have bonded with our new friends and families, constructed a kitchen that local children will use for years and, most importantly, immersed ourselves in the rich Peruvian culture.  We have stepped outside our comfort zones and pushed ourselves harder than we thought possible.  We speak better Spanish now and know a few words in Quechua.  High altitude doesn’t affect us.  Our forearms and legs are stronger, our hearts bigger and our minds are more open.  This month has been the adventure we hoped for and more, and we can’t wait for you to hear about it in person.

We leave tomorrow for Cusco, and for Lima on Monday.  Our international flight is scheduled to land Tuesday afternoon.  Thanks for following our adventure, and we hope you are enjoying your summers!

Vanessa y Gabriel
Peru Immersion

Peru Immersion Coasting!

Hello Family and Friends! Here’s another blog filling you in from where we left off last – in the great Peruvian city of Cuzco!

After announcing Hailee, Patrick and BJ as the group winners of the scavenger hunt, our fun in Cuzco continued with a delicious dinner of falafels. Back at the hotel, we played a few games as a group before heading to bed.

Tuesday morning started with a city tour with our favorite tour guide, Mario “Chino” Tapia.  Chino took us around the once foremost city of the Inca Empire, explaining its history as we navigated the cobblestone streets. The highlight of the tour was a stop at Saqsaywamán, an immense ruin of both religious and military significance. The name of this massive fort in the Indigenous language of Quechua means “Satisfied Falcon,” and stands impressively tall, despite the fact that only 20% from the original structure remains.

We then set out in search for the perfect lunch spot in groups of threes. Some of us devoured street food cuisine of empanadas, while others splurged on local delicacies of alpaca steak and guinea pig. We all regrouped in the afternoon for a highly requested salsa dancing class with Francesco. We rehearsed the moves continuously, trying to keep up with our instructors and master the steps and turns. Our class was scheduled to be an hour, but we successfully pleaded for more time to practice what we had learned. With a rotation of partners, everyone was able to master a step or two!

Our dinner on Tuesday was considered by many to be the best yet on this Walking Tree trip: wood-oven pizza. The group cozied up in a small local restaurant and feasted upon a variety of (perhaps) the best pizzas in the Southern Hemisphere. Many students chose to cash in their prizes of ice cream afterwards and they tried different flavors such as chirimoya and lucuma, both local fruits. The group walked together down the bustling Avenida del Sol back to our hotel, where we enjoyed games of psychologist before bedtime.

The group woke up bright and early on Wednesday morning for a meeting and an early return back “home” to Ollantaytambo. The group was well rested and motivated to continue working on the project. By now, most students were familiar with the route from Cuzco to Urubamba to Ollanta, and enjoyed familiar views of the stunning Sacred Valley. Our host families welcomed our return and fed us delicious and hearty lunches, preparing us for the hard work that lay ahead. Wednesday afternoon was spent laying the first adobe blocks for the construction of our kitchen’s wall.

With two foremen on the site now, Juan and Eugenio, the work has been moving ahead at a steady pace and the progress is impressive. With some students sifting dirt, some mixing mud, some heaving bricks, and others layering mud and adobe, the wall now stands almost three meters high.

We also managed to unload and carry 200 tiles for the future roof, and since not a single tile was damaged, the group was, of course, rewarded with the preferred treat of ice cream cones. Our days last week continued with mud and bricks, followed by games of soccer at the field with Peruvian friends, gatherings for hot chocolate, and nights spent stargazing. Many students have taken advantage of our surroundings by exploring the ancient ruins. We all continue to agree that Ollantaytambo is the ideal place for cultural immersion and historical exploration.

Sunday was a day off from the service project, but in no way was it a day of rest! The group set off at 8:00am to further explore all the Sacred Valley has to offer. We started our day in Chinchero, visiting local weavers, where we watched women dye the alpaca wool and transform the thread into masterpieces. Students had an opportunity to observe the creation of the weavings, while asking questions about the process. Some of you may be receiving a gift or two from this stop!

After continuing on to visit Chinchero’s ruins and Sunday market, the students were fitted for mountain bikes and prepared for a fun and safe ride to the plaza of Maras, another ancient city in the Sacred Valley. The group arrived by bicycle about forty minutes after departure and enjoyed a picnic lunch prepared by the host families. We left our bikes for a bit and drove up beyond Maras to the marvels of Moray, where Mario explained the history behind the impressively deep amphitheater-like terracing structures. Different levels of concentric terraces here are carved into the earth, each with a different depth and therefore, its own microclimate. A common theory is that the Incas used these terraces as experimentation to find the optimal conditions for growing different crops. The students marveled at these Incan wonders, posing for a variety of beautiful photos. All were impressed and excited to carry on the bike journey to the next stop in the Valley, Salinas.

The group hopped on bikes and carefully took off on the path towards the stop with thousands of saltpans, which have been used for salt production since Inca times. A hot stream at the top releases heavily salt-laden water, which is diverted into saltpans and evaporated to extract salt. All enjoyed the views here at Salinas, but were exhausted from the bike ride and ready to head back to Ollanta.

Back in Ollanta, the students arrived hoping for an early night’s rest. Little did we know, our host families had planned a celebration with cuy (guinea pig) and other local delights, including dancing! The students’ confusion soon gave way to joy as the food was served and all were invited to show off the dance moves learned in Cuzco. Students and families shared in food and smiles during this cultural experience.

Since this group is a motivated, hardworking, and determined bunch, it was agreed by all that work should start at 7:30 this Monday morning, to ensure that the project is complete before we begin our journey on Thursday to Machu Picchu. Much progress has been made, but there are still adobes to place and a roof to construct, and the students are determined to get the job done, even if it means arriving early and staying late.

It is hard to believe that in just a few days, we will be leaving our families and setting off to explore one of the greatest wonders of the world. As our time here winds down, we continue to enjoy each moment fully and appreciate all that we have been fortunate to share and experience here in Peru.   We send our love and best wishes back home, and we hope that this account can bring to you a little of what we are living.

Vanessa y Gabriel

Peru Immerion

Peru Immersion: First Week In Village

What follows is a narrative of the last week in Peru.  We tried to include segments of the group journal our students are maintaining throughout our time here (everyone will get a copy of the journal to remember the adventure).

We began the week by taking a 6-hour ride on a public bus ride, a must for any intrepid South American explorer, from Puno-Cusco.

We arrived around 2pm to Cusco, where we ate lunch at Victor Victoria, a local Peruvian restaurant. As Elena and Logan described in our group journal, “The food was excellent and the wait staff affable.” They continue, “The return to the hotel brought an all-hands meeting, where homestay arrangements for the village were issued.  Everyone seemed content with the bookings, and a quick yoga session followed. All who participated left feeling quite refreshed, especially after a quick ‘partner yoga’ session.” The night ended with a light dinner and an early bedtime.

Hannah and Tommy describe Tuesday in great detail, as the group arrived to our homestay village of Ollantaytambo:
“We woke up around 8 at the hotel for a delicious breakfast of bread, jam and eggs. We heaved our huge suitcases down to the bus, where they would be placed on the roof. We were off to our homestays, 2 hours away from Cusco. Before we knew it, we had reached the majestic town of Ollantaytambo.

After a warm welcome from the mayor and a group toast (of water), we broke off into groups and met with our host families. Although dragging wheeled-duffel bags through Incan Cobblestone streets, untouched due to the national laws, proved strenuous, the families were kind, the atmosphere was inviting, and the lunch was delicious.
In the afternoon, we said good-bye to our new families and scouted out the school where we would be spending the next two weeks building a cafeteria. Because of a gasoline-price strike, classes were not in session, and the school grounds were filled with piles of rubble. Also due to the strike, our supplies had not yet arrived, so we did not get to work. Instead, we all met at the local soccer field and played bare-footed soccer until dinnertime.  During dinner that first night, the awkwardness of the language and cultural gap lessened. We all went to sleep at 9, in anticipation for the next day’s hard work.”

Ollantaytambo is surrounded by towering Andean peaks, Incan Ruins and graphed by 8-century old canals.  At night, the views are just as dazzling when a plethora of stars dance around the brilliant moon.  Craig, Sydney, Brendan and Shannon took advantage of the nightly show by stargazing in a field outside the city center.

Wednesday was our first day on the service project. All the students arrived with exciting news about their host families and a positive attitude towards our work project. Callie and Evan described the beginning of the project:
“First, we moved giant piles of rocks out of our way, and then we started work on the digging of 40cm deep trenches all around the site. With our pickaxes and shovels, we were able to finish the trenches. We then began to fill them with rocks and mud, making a foundation for the kitchen.”

For the rest of the week, the group continued to pour its energy and sweat into the project. We moved rocks of all sizes (Monica has serious biceps now), unloaded 1,000 adobe blocks, dug trenches, mixed cement, fetched buckets of water from the stream, and maneuvered heavy wheelbarrows through mud. We took occasional breaks, highlighted by an impromptu filming of, “I’ve Been Working on the Railroad, ” featuring Patrick as the lead singer (coming soon to youtube.com). Drew showed his Spanish and construction skills while working alongside Juan, our local foreman, and Hailee shone as team captain, fielding questions and making decisions.  Some went on a brief excursion to Urubamba to purchase boots for all this dirty work. After working hard, many of us chose to spend the time before dinner at the field playing soccer with our new Peruvian friends. BJ impressed all with his great saves as goalie.  Within just a few days, we felt at home and at ease with our host families and new environment.

Although we have been enjoying the chance to work hard towards a goal as important as the construction of the school’s kitchen, we welcomed Sunday’s respite. We met at 10am in the plaza and headed to the town of Pisac, an hour away from Ollantaytambo. This quiet colonial Andean village comes alive on Sundays with its famous weekly market, where traditionally dressed locals gather to sell foods, weavings and handicrafts. We spent about three hours here, exploring and bargaining in Spanish, and enjoying surrounding views of Incan ruins.

We are now in Cusco, learning more about the history of the Incan city. We have spent the day on a quest to find the 20 items on our “Photographic Scavenger Hunt,” which included the local delicacy “cuy” aka guinea pig and a word written in Quechua, the language of the Indigenous Peruvians (extra points for translation). All items had to be photographed, and we are currently awaiting the development of these photos with which Gabriel and Vanessa will determine a winner.  Of course, spoils go to the winners in the traditional form of ice cream!!

Touring and learning about Peru has been an incredible journey, but we all agree that our time in Ollantaytambo has been the most important aspect of the program.   We are about half-way through out time in Peru and it has already proven to be unforgettable, with the best still to come.